K's folks came to visit and we had them on a whirlwind trip trying to see as much of possible of Kenya to get a flavour for the country. Emma and I mostly stayed at home to try and keep her routine as simple as possible while K acted as guide and chauffeur. Em and I did go with them to Nakuru National Park.
It is a small park compared to others I have traveled in, from any point in the park you can look down towards the lake and up towards a hill, or cliff side. On most of the hilltops you can see evidence of human habitation. Either rows of crops or twinkling metal rooftops. In the two nights we were there the park was most spectacular at first light. The air was cool and fresh but not cold, and the dust was still settled from the dew. When you looked up at the hills there were parts illuminated and coloured by the early sun, and parts so completely in shadow it must still have been night there. But it was looking down at the lake that made you hold your breath and try to take a photo with your mind. The fever trees stood at the lake's edge, so tall with bright green trunks and the table top canopies. Between their trunks there were glimpses of white and you could just make out birds on the glimmering water. The mist covered the lake and steamed up into the air, reaching towards the sun and hiding the far shoreline.
My two most exciting moments in the park came on our way out. The first was driving along the shoreline with standing water on either side of us. We marveled at the numerous birds, zebra, gazelle and buffalo on either side of us, wading into the water to drink. As we were moving along the road a monolithic creature made us stop. A white rhino, paused on the side of the road, waiting to see what we would do. When we just sat in the car watching him in amazement, he decided to go ahead and cross the road. In the middle of the road he decided he didn't like the look of us and lowered his head to stare at our car over his long and very pointed horns. K gently reversed down the road to indicate that we were well aware of our submissive status and the rhino continued across the road, then splashed down alongside the car, taking a sip of water now and then. When he faced us, he was almost as wide as the car, and when alongside, almost as long. I really felt that we were looking at a dinosaur. Armour plated and heavy, ready to defend himself or attack, whichever he chose.
The second exciting moment came when we were almost to the gate. Looking through the trees and out onto a plain we could see that multiple herds of gazelle and buffalo were moving along, pausing now and then but then moving faster. We were sure there must be something pushing them along, just waiting to choose prey but we couldn't see what had to be lions. Then we rounded a corner and came upon four lions reclining in a partially fallen tree. They were young adults, grown but still spotted and striped. Some were completely relaxed with giant paws dangling off the tree and one couldn't find a good spot and moved along the trunk, stretching, yawning and generally showing himself to best advantage. As we watched an older female came and lay under the tree. Clearly keeping an eye on the youngsters while the rest of the pride rustled up some lunch.
